The Road to Hana

 

To begin our adventure on the Road to Hana, we drive one hour to reach the beginning highway.   The drive from that point will take at least 2 hours one way depending upon how many stops we make and how many cars we meet.  It will be an all day trip, for sure!

Before we reach the

Hana Highway

, we pass by many attractions such as:  the only tunnel on Maui, McGregor Point Lighthouse, Ma’Alaea Harbor Village, sugar cane fields, golf courses, malls, aquarium, helicopter rides, submarine rides, and the Kahului Airport.  In between there are many beaches filled with those who snorkel, surf, or simply show off their bikinis while basking in the sun!   

Once on the Road to Hana, there are only two lanes with 617 curves and 50 one lane bridges.  It is also important, I feel, to mention that bicyclists are prolific!  Motorcycles are also added to the mix. Twenty minutes into the drive, we begin to see road signs for construction which means big trucks, road workers, and delays in our already lengthy trip.

Depending upon the season, there are plentiful waterfalls dotted along the way and at least 20 natural pools of water for swimming.  Nature hiking trails of all levels are clearly marked and there are several state parks that can be found up and down the Road to Hana.  Available parking along the way is worthy of ‘upping’ your life insurance.  Off road availability is scarce and always just a well used dirt ‘spot’ where the grass has been worn down by previous risk takers.  Lack of parking frequently causes sightseers to park on the already narrow road itself. 

Early on our way, we pass sugar cane fields, coffee plantations, and beautiful mountain views.  The first little town we approach is Pa’ia which I have mentioned in an earlier post.  The Sugar Mill is closed and the town caters to water ‘boarders’ of all types.  It has a definite ‘hippie’ feel to it, but is filled with great little eateries, shops, and art.  At the hemp shop, we saw a t-shirt that had a picture of a marijuana plant with ‘good bush’ written beneath it, and then a picture of George W. Bush, Jr. with ‘bad bush’ written below.  This town is very well attended and very laid back.  I read somewhere that the influx of 'hippies' in the 1960's greatly impacted this conservative culture.

The next point of interest is one of the best wind surfing locations in the world, Ho'okipa Beach Park.  Surfers arrive before sunrise waiting for the tide to be perfect.  By afternoon, the wind surfers enjoy the trade winds offering quite a show!  We pulled into the beach parking area to view these skilled athletes try to master the waves. 

A little farther along, we pass a pasture with one lone horse.  Unfortunately, I did not have my trusty Kodak 35 mm cocked and ready to go, and therefore, missed the shot.  I did know that we were not far from Makawao and that this particular area was known for Polo on Sundays, rodeos, and genuine cowboys. The ever diverse island of Maui!

On the left, we notice the office location of the East Maui Irrigation System.  This system uses man created ditches to capture and carry water where it is needed. There are 400 streams, and the island does not have any rivers. 

To the south of us is the Upcountry where many farms are located due to the heavy rainfall.  The island receives 360 inches of rain per year!  YIKES!  So the rain is used to irrigate the fields and farms of vegetables, flowers, plants, fruit and trees.

We travel along amazed at the beautiful flowers growing wildly along the road.  They are not only huge, but very vibrant in color.  We pass Rainbow Eucalyptus trees that are surreal.  I get a picture of these fragrant trees, but I know that the colors will never reflect their strange glow. The Eucalyptus trees were originally  brought to Maui from Australia around 1886.  The wood from these trees was used for lumber, as well as for fuel for steam engines.  The fragrant leaves continue to be used for decoration.

Bamboo for some reason is one of my favorite trees.  I actually tried to grow bamboo in my yard once in spite of everyone warning me how invasive it would be.  Of course I could never get it started.  The Bamboo Forrest is captivating and I take photos of different shapes and colors.  Polynesians brought Bamboo with them coming to this island as it is so purposeful.  Bamboo can be used for carrying water, musical instruments, sprouts for food and it can grow one foot per day!

Just preceding the Puohokamoa Falls, we arrive at the Garden of Eden.  It is expensive to visit, but it is an experience you do not want to miss.  Development began in 1991 and the garden opened in the fall of 1996.  It is 26 acres filled with nature trails, trees, foliage, flowers, statues and breathtaking views.  This had been one of my most favorite attractions four years ago, and continues to have top rating today.  For more information look at my Garden of Eden post.

Birds originally came to this island dropping seeds for growth in the lava rocks.  The birds first introduced to the island were used for the feathers, especially red and yellow which reflected royalty. Originally, there were around 1,000 unique forms, but 70% faced extinction when the west came to this island.  Merchants, missionaries, and imported laborers brought diseases such as smallpox and syphilis which killed a large majority of Hawaiian population and animals as well.

There are 17 different species of sharks around the island, but the White Shark is not one of them.  The sharks feed on turtles and turtles seem to be plentiful.  From our lanai, we frequently see very large turtles in the shallow water, but I am usually more focused farther out in the ocean watching for whales.  The whales mate in the winter months so I guess this is why we have seen so many frolicking in the water.

Driving along the Road to Hana, we pass so many different kinds of trees.  I will list the ones that I can remember:  Mountain Apple, Paper Bark, Coconut, Banana, Eucalyptus, Bamboo, the state tree that has lime green leaves and grows 100 feet high, Monkey Pod, Breadfruit, Mango, Guava, Sandalwood, Ginger and last but definitely not least, the amazing Banyon tree with roots growing from the branches then back down into the ground.

We pass many more stopping spots, little stands selling fruits and banana bread, as well as state parks and more hiking trails.  Honomanu Bay offers a black sand beach and Pa'iloa Bay has legends about the caves. 

Finally, we arrive at Hana, the ancient center that once belonged to the "Big Island".  At one time it was the only way to enter the island, arriving by ship.  It is rich with history, especially political.  In 1848, Western merchants and  politicians 'hood winked' the original Hawaiian population into giving away control of the island.  One third control went to Westerners and two thirds went to ruling chiefs. In 1900 the island became a United States Territory and then in 1959 it became the 50th state, the state of Hawaii.

In 1940 when sugar cane plantations were decreasing impacting the economy, Paul Hagan developed a 4700 acre cattle ranch.  He built a hotel in 1947 and then invited the San Francisco Seals to hold spring training which brought a high level of free advertisements.  This cattle ranch is in existence today, but 100% of the meat is exported.  The Hawaiian population had been muscular and lean until the west introduced the high fat diet including beef. 

Stories and artifacts are abundant in Hana.  Legend reflects that the fire goddess Pelei left Tahiti and died in Hana, her bones covered with lava.  Hana also has an old altar from the 1400's that is 50 feet high.  Charles Lindberg's final stop is a resting place by the Congregational Church.  There is also a wonderful story of two brothers who were preparing to go to war.  Together they swam out to a small island with two coconuts which they planted.  They told their parents that if neither one of them returned from war, they would have the trees to remember them by.  Both survived the war and a grove of trees prosper. 

There is very little in the town of Hana other than a small hotel and restaurant.  Most people bring a picnic lunch and sit by the bay to eat.  There is a cultural center and very little else.  To arrive is almost a let down after risking life on the treacherous road! 

To continue passed Hana, the road will lead to Haleakala National Park where the dormant volcano can be visited.  I could say that I have no interest in visiting this very popular attraction, but it would be more accurate to say that I am resistant.  Fortunately, Russ has previously visited the volcanoes so there is no pressure for me to go.  It is all about energy and balance.  I do not feel that I can maintain alignment in the presence of so much lava.

We turn around to make the two hour drive back.  I am forever grateful to be the passenger and not the driver.  We return home safely, celebrating with Pina Coladas! This ends the tale of our Road to Hana.